Mellow Corn Straight Corn Whiskey Review

In a mellow mood

By John Barecki

Corn plays an integral role in the world of whisk(e)y, helping create well-known flavors in American sprits thanks to its high utilization in Bourbon, Tennessee whiskey and the evolving moonshine category. The use of this grain is also explored on the soil of many other countries including Japan, Scotland, Ireland and South Africa.

The flavors and aromas of corn whiskies can range from sweet and creamy to earthy and savory. They open your palate to what one integral part of the whole can do and they allow you to experience the multiple facets of a single grain. Mellow Corn is an interesting example of the effect corn can have on its own and also teaches your tongue to recognize its flavors in whiskeys you taste later on. 

One other reason you should think about trying Mellow Corn is that it is bottled in bond. The Bottled in Bond Act was created to ward off imposters in the early days of American distillation and continues today. In short it is a set of rules enacted in 1897 that must be followed while producing whiskey. The spirit must be made from one distillation season, by one distiller at one distillery. The spirit must also be aged in a bonded warehouse (under U.S. government supervision) for no less than four years. Outside of adding water to proof down the new spirit, the law prohibits the addition or subtraction of any substance (flavoring and colorant) or the utilization of any process to alter the original character of the end product.

Most often the products that fall under the Bottled in Bond Act are quite good. Rittenhouse Rye and Old Grand Dad come to mind and there are some higher-end examples as well, for example (when you can find it), the Colonel E.H. Taylor line made by Buffalo Trace Distillery. 

I took my time with Mellow Corn, enjoying all the interesting things going on inside this retro bottle, from the sweet to the savory to the earthy. It is in a sense similar to an eau de vie or un-aged fruit brandy in that it really shows the eccentricities of the single ingredient. 

• Nose: New leather, woodsy spices, nutmeg, vanilla with a touch of a solvent-like aroma that is more pine sap, with a sour but slightly fruity note.
• Palate: Medium to thin body, sweet corn front, earthy, lightly cooked maple syrup, tree sap, vanilla and light caramel; reminiscent of early season sweet corn with a dash of pepper. 
• Finish: Relatively short, the earthy tones hold on with a light menthol mist; slight fruity notes linger in the middle.

Overall, Mellow Corn is a fun and feisty whiskey, featuring flavors you will find in most Bourbons, being that Bourbon is made from at least 51% corn and because the barrels in which they age Mellow Corn were once reserved for Bourbon. On its own, Mellow Corn has complexities that dance across your tongue. A touch of water will help bring out the earthy characteristics of the grain.

This whiskey has been in Heaven Hill's arsenal for quite some time now. Sadly it often gets pushed to the wayside because of its outdated look (which is making a comeback) or the oddball color, which is natural (see Bottled in Bond Act). But there is now a resurgence in the market mainly thanks to the emerging cocktail scene. This is a whiskey for those of you who either want to enjoy bourbon to its fullest extent or to expand your knowledge of the effect individual grains can have on whiskey. It's also a good way to create interesting but familiar flavors in your mixed drinks.

If you are interested in furthering your experience with single-grain corn spirits, I would suggest the Bains Cape Mountain single grain whiskey from the James Sedgwick Distillery in South Africa as well as the Nikka Coffey grain whisky from Japan and the single grain expression from the Teeling Distillery in Ireland, which uses old wine barrels for further aging.

Mellow Corn Straight Corn Whiskey (Heaven Hill Distilleries) is available now at Siciliano's Market for $12.99/750ml.

Review: Passport & Antiquary Blended Scotch Whiskies

Review by John Barecki

There are a couple of reasons I occasionally return to blended Scotch whisky on my travels through the world of spirits. I quite enjoy the overall flavor of Scotch whiskies but I don't always like the price tag that accompanies them. Some of the lower-priced blends can be very enjoyable and, best of all, you don't mind sharing them with friends as much as you do the prized single malts in your collection. Blends have good versatility and can be used in a variety of cocktails like the simple but effective highball, which is a measure of whisky mixed with a bit of water or club soda. A drink like this is a fun mix that allows you to imbibe the spirit like beer (and keeps you hydrated).

The other reason I go to blends periodically is my interest in master blenders and what they do. The blends and the non-single barrel single malts require a professional nose, tongue and eye for detail. The ability to recreate all of the smells and tastes of the whiskies that we have come to love takes years of experience and personal training. Here is a small run down of what these people do.

A single malt whisky is described as a whisky made from malt produced at only one distillery. Single malts are a bit like blends but they work in a different way. Professionals describe it with a term called marring, which means they take various single malt whiskies from the same distillery and mix them all together, allowing them to mingle with one another and creating a consistent product. In a way, it's similar to the Grand Cru style of wine and beer blending where producers mix young and old product together.

With single malts, the age statement on bottles usually refers to the youngest and most times the highest volume of whisky in the blend. Then there are additional percentages of older malts added in to create the end product. The blended Scotch whiskies are similar, but a lot more of the whiskies are comprised of single malts from multiple distilleries with varying age (with up to 30 different ones, claimed by some companies) along with the addition of grain whiskies, which are usually made using corn, wheat or rye.

There are also blended malt whiskies that are blends of single malts from different distilleries without the adjunct of grain whisky in the bill. With all of these whiskies the ability to decipher the flavor, smell, body, barrel type and so on can be both mind and palate numbing. I have great respect for the puzzle masters who can unravel and recreate whisky that can be delightful and sometimes sublime. For this review I chose two blends that are new to me.

Passport Blended Scotch Whisky ($17.99/750ml) is a surprisingly drinkable and affordable blend composed of multiple Highland and Speyside single malts, including The Glenlivet. The nose is fresh and fruity with slight flowery notes. There is apple and pear, a bit of cereal tone with some oxidative slightly sulfury/fruity qualities coming from the sherry aging on some of the single malts used. The palate is creamy, very fresh and vibrant, like fruit leather with a slight butterscotch tone. Passport finishes well and long with the apple/pear returning along with a touch of honey and wood spice.

The Anitiquary Blended Scotch Whisky ($21.96/750ml) comes from the Tomatin distillery, so with that we can expect more of their single malt to be used. There is a good amount of cereal and honeyed malt notes on the nose with a bit of wood spice and dried fruit. A very easy drinking blend, there is a hint of smoke that comes through which balances some fruit notes in the middle. The finish is long and drying a smattering of malt, honey, vanilla, fruit and spice.

Both of these are great table whiskies to have around. They are enjoyable to the senses and show us a different perspective in terms of contemplating this wonderful spirit. They are available at Siciliano's Market along with some other very good blends. We suggest you come take a look.

Prairie BOMB! Imperial Stout: The Tuesday Review

Prairie BOMB!, $8.99/12oz

By Max Spencer

Prairie Artisan Ales is a brewery located in Tulsa, Oklahoma. Founded in 2012 by brothers Chase and Colin Healy, Prairie aims to make unapologetically great beer. The lineup of beers created by Prairie includes a large variety of stouts, farmhouse and Belgian ales, each with a distinct character and tons of flavor. One of the brothers, Colin Healy, further develops the character of each beer with his offbeat and attractive label designs.

Prairie BOMB! is a brazen Imperial Stout aged on cocoa nibs, vanilla, espresso beans and ancho chiles that sits at 13% ABV. The beer, available year round, pours pitch black and viscous with a dark tan head that quickly dissipates. The ancho chiles commandeer the nose with hints of earth and dried fruit, accompanied by light vanilla and coffee aromas. When cold, the vanilla and cocoa dominate the palate and ride into the finish where the ancho chiles and espresso beans reveal themselves slowly and delicately. As the beer warms, the rich earthiness and light heat of the chiles as well as the bitterness and flavor from the coffee come into play throughout the palate. The buildup of coffee and chili flavors balance out the sweetness of the beer, which can be overbearing when too cold. The malt build is well designed; it provides a backbone that supports all of the flavors present, smoothing out their edges and allowing them to play together.

BOMB! is an appropriately named, well-executed beer that incorporates many different flavors without going overboard — it's well worth a try. I would recommend drinking it at slightly below room temperature (55-65°F) from a goblet or tulip glass and pairing with a cinnamon crumb cake.

Prairie BOMB! is available now at Siciliano's for $8.99/12oz.

Dogfish Head Chateau Jiahu: A Tuesday Review

Dogfish Head Chateau Jiahu

By Doug Dorda

Atop the end-cap I hoisted the peculiarly shaped bottles and thought very little of doing so. However, I found myself stricken by the simple, yet beautiful, artwork that adorns the package for Chateau Jiahu, the ancient ale meant to mimic a beverage of yesteryear as presented by Dogfish Head. I twirled the bottle in my hand and reminded myself that it must have been at least three years since this libation has passed my lips, and I thought that I might play into the archaeological theme of the “beer” by digging into my own past and daring myself to compare a fresh taste with the dusty recollections of days gone by.

For those readers that may find themselves unaware of what Dogfish Head has done with their lineup of Arachaeo ales, a primer on the subject can be found here. As with most fermented beverages that pre-date the practiced use of hops, or may be considered merely a cousin to what we now consider beer, honey and fruit are the prominent source of fermentable sugar in the Chateau, and as such the beer pours a brilliant pale golden color that suggests muscat grapes dangling from sun drenched vines on a summer day. High levels of carbonation offer a large, though fleeting, stark white head that is a fragile though beautiful crown atop the ale. A wave of enchanting melon, honey, and caramel flow from the glass and find the nose well, if not begging to be entirely inundated with the intoxicating aroma.

As the golden glass is tilted toward the mouth there is an immediately recognizable presence of honey that haunts the palate before any liquid has even met the tongue, a sensation that I am sure most who regularly consume honey are all too aware of. The prelude does not disappoint, as barely peppered honey mingles with delicate melon and crisp white grapes on the palate. The sensation is in danger of becoming just too sweet when the highly carbonic ale meets the mid palate and completely cuts what may have otherwise been a cloying aperitif. Indulging in Chateau Jiahu is a bit like biting into a marshmallow speckled fruit salad that has been drizzled with honey while a scant amount of finely ground peppercorn provides a welcome contrast to the richly sweet surroundings.

I, and those who helped me to enjoy the ale, were wholeheartedly pleased to discover that though we had most definitely had the beer before, within its depths we were able to unearth entirely new reasons to fall in love with it all over again. Perhaps there is a beer on a shelf somewhere that you have not coerced into the light of day for quite some time? Should that be the case, I’ll wager that regardless of how you find the beer, you will find yourself entirely intrigued by the assessment of it. Should you choose to try Chateau Jiahu again—or for the first time—it is available on our shelves for $14.39.

Ardmore Single Malt & Teachers Highland | Tuesday Review

By John Barecki

While searching for a handful of whiskies that are more on the affordable side, I stumbled upon a blended whisky and a very interesting single malt at the same time. The blend actually utilizes the single malt as its main flavor component, almost like a symbiotic relationship. The two whiskies in question are the Ardmore Single Malt and Teachers Highland Cream.

The Ardmore is a special kind of single malt. Being distilled in the Highland/Speyside region of Scotland, it is first aged in second-fill bourbon barrels and then a portion is placed into a quarter cask, which is a quarter the size of a full cask. Doing so creates more substantial wood contact thus contributing a higher amount of wood tones in the final product. I call this one special because it uses a higher percentage of peat than most highland malts. The peat comes from the Highland region itself and creates a smokey flavor reminiscent of hickory, having more savory qualities opposed to the medicinal notes that tend to come with peat from the Islay region.

This malt is also bottled at 46% (92 proof) and as I continue tasting different malts, I find those that have a higher proof usually have a more well-rounded flavor compared to the traditional 80 proof bottling. On the nose this malt has a full succulent aroma, rich with spicy and woody tones. The flavors burst on the palate, oily and full of savory delights. Honeyed barley gives way to an almost olive like taste which is surrounded by a smoky and peaty tang, followed by fine vanilla notes. The finish is full of peat and long lingering. This is a very complex oddity in the single malt range and does not disappoint.

My second review is the blended malt that uses the Ardmore as its "fingerprint malt": Teachers Highland Cream. This blend uses 45% single malt in its blend, making it one of the highest malt to grain whisky ratios on the blended market, the reason being so the character of the whisky is more well rounded. The mouthfeel is full and malt driven, lots of barley and honey followed by a well-rounded smoke. Wood tones run softly throughout the middle and culminate with a gathering of apple and pear notes on the finish. This whisky utilizes the highland malt characteristics from the Ardmore single malt, as well as its huge complexities to create a truly wonderful experience at a great price point as well.

Ardmore Single Malt ($36.99/750ml) and Teachers Highland Cream ($16.99/750ml) are both available at Siciliano's Market.

Tuesday Review: Manon Tempranillo

Manon Tempranillo

By Doug Dorda

Here is a wine that is as bold in color as it is in the rest of its rich and haunting characteristics. This particular vino pours a haughty purple that is only slightly offset by a hue of lavender as it thins toward the rim (research into the Spanish grape varietal reveals that the grape itself brandishes the same deep hues boldly on the vine). Intrigued by its color and the premise for tasting, that being a plate rife with cheeses and cured meats, I sunk my nose into the glass.

Bursting forth from the beautiful, albeit gloomy purple vintage is a whisp of smoke, like pipe tobacco that clings to a well-worn tweed coat. Peppercorn and savory ancho chili lend complexity to the smoke, and contrast is found in the way of dried strawberry that dances with molasses among the backdrop of a mild ethyl alcohol note.

The taste brings a powerful, though balanced presence of smoke to the forefront of the tongue. One can not help but think of moist applewood being added to a barbecue. Tart cherries and molasses along with other dried fruits become the focus of the mid palate and allow the drinker to ponder the complexity of the wine for at least a moment. The finish is a cascade of peppercorn, grain leather, cardamom and tannins that work to make the full bodied wine intensely quaffable.

As I tasted I shook my head in mild disbelief, slowly breathing a “whoa.” Not only did it pair perfectly with the food on the tray in front of me, I longed to drink this vintage with everything from barbecue to fruit salad and beyond. The sun sank lower across the lake and I closed my eyes to dream of spring. I thought to myself, I’ll have to have this wine quite often. At a modest price point of less than $8 a bottle, you may find yourself saying the same.

Tuesday Review: Cardhu 12 Year Single Malt Scotch

$39.99/750ml

By John Barecki

Cardhu 12 Year Old Single Malt Scotch is allegedly the creation of the first female malt producer in Scotland. Helen and John Cummings sited their first still at Cardow farm on Mannoch hill, which sits high above the river spey. According to local and family tradition, the distilling process was carried out by Helen and, after her death, her son's wife Elizabeth Robertson took up the reigns and carried on the pioneering work.

Cardhu 12 Year is no stranger to many whisky drinkers, being one of the main single malts in Johnny Walker blended whisky. The distillery went through only a couple of changes in its past. It survived WWII, functioning on a smaller scale because of barley rationing and yet still went on to become a very popular dram. In fact, in the early 2000s, stocks were being depleted quicker than they could be replenished. In response, Cardhu's parent company Diageo decided to replace the single malt with a blended malt, but the "pure malt" label angered consumers so much so that Diageo decided to pull this packaging from the market for fear of blemishing the single malt designation.

This malt is bottled at 40% ABV (80 proof). Now, the last two whiskys I sampled came in at around 92 to 96 proof, so the initial big boisterous alcohol punch seemed somewhat muted on this one. At first pour I noticed a mouthwatering character, fresh sweet barley, light herbal qualities and just a touch of smoke. It was almost too smooth on the palate, with soft fruity citrus and vanilla followed by a lingering light rhubarb sweetness that finished with a well-rounded dryness, punctuated by another touch of smoke at the end.

This is an enjoyable, easy-drinking single malt, with a well rounded "light" collection of flavors flourishing throughout. If you are looking for that high quality, everyday sipper this one hits it on the head, and at $39.99/750ml, it is not going to strain your budget.

Kilchoman Machir Bay Single Malt Whisky | Review

Kilchoman Machir Bay, $56.03/750ml

By John Barecki

Kilchoman distillery is a wonderful new edition to the family of Islay malts now available. Using the term "new" is a rarity in the Islay whisky industry because, before Kilchoman, there had not been a brand new production facility on the island in about 124 years. Since 2005 these guys have been creating something wonderful—even with their "new make spirit," the product not yet three years old and therefore ineligible for whisky designation, the distillers have received high reviews.

Kilchoman produces its malt through a process that you don't see all that often in Scotch production. They are a farm distillery, using grain that is grown on a farm located on site. They employ floor malting techniques used by only a handful of distilleries and they carry out all aging and bottling on Islay. (Some of the distilleries on the island age on the Scottish mainland.)

Machir Bay is the first permanent bottling available from Kilchoman. It is a vatting or "marrying" of 3-, 4- and 5-year-old whisky that has been aged in ex-bourbon (Buffalo Trace) white oak casks in addition to the short 8-week rest in ex-sherry Butts to finish. On the nose, there is a slight heat from the 46% ABV that is surprisingly soft considering the age. Unmistakable peat up front calms down with a nice sweet smokiness, fresh barley and hay, with a slight fruitiness discernable after a short rest in the glass.

On the palate there is a burst of initial peat smoke and citrus, then barley again with a nice sweetness. Just a hint of green quality comes threw but not as much as expected from such a young whisky. A nice vanilla comes out of the bourbon cask aging on the finish, but being that it is young, there isn't a lot on the tail end, just a nice conclusion of all the flavors.

Taking all of this into consideration, I look back on this malt with a true appreciation for the art of whisky making, experiencing the development of something that is wonderful and that will surely impress in the future.

Tuesday Review: Ommegang Art of Darkness

Brewery Ommegang Art of Darkness

By Doug Dorda

As the winter marches calmly on, we find ourselves often in the embrace of a feeling of stagnation. Though the days slowly get longer, it does seem as though mother nature will not yield her cling to her earthly plot, and regardless of a groundhog's prediction, the winter shall endure until she sees fit to let the levee, of spring, break.

For we, the enthusiasts of craft beer, it is the cold and crisp months that drive us into the loving embrace of porters, stouts, and all other divination of dark ale or lager that helps our wearied souls balk at the night's bitter chill. Yet, how often have we turned toward the darkness as respite from the cold? Does the stagnation of nature help to lead to a stagnation of our choice in nightcap? (Though I doubt that to be the case, it can not be ignored that long winters can exhaust the lust for bold beers.)

Enter Art of Darkness from Brewery Ommegang, a late-to-the-table offering for us Michiganders that seeks to provide the dark side in us all with a welcome touch of light. Though the ale is of wintery high-gravity standard, it surprised me beyond belief due to its apparent dry finish, a most interesting twist in the land of bombastic ales.

The nose is a mixture of heartily spiced breads: gingerbread or molasses. A fleeting note of alcohol mixes with a promise of non-descript fruit that positively begs the quaffer to drink. An immediate explosion of licorice, anise and coriander dominates the palate in an effect that is as pleasant as it is unexpected. Slowly emerging from the intricate sea of massive flavors is a pronounced note of dried figs as well as a melange of other dried fruit that provides the perfect counterpoint to the assault on the fore palate. The experience ends almost abruptly as the intense levels of carbonation within the ale clean the palate and leave you dying for another sip to remember the haunting and flickering flavors that were so vivid only moments before.

This is a beer that boldly stands alongside others of its ilk. Yet it remains unique, worthy of a spot on your table in the winter or, truly, any season. It is the opinion of this author that this beer would pair wonderfully with a savory roast, hearty stew, or a lovingly prepared desert. I found this beer a lively injection of variant to the otherwise “go to” ales of winter. I believe that should you try it, you may come to the same conclusion.

Brewery Ommegang Art of Darkness ($18.59/750ml) is a Belgian Strong Ale.

Tuesday Review: anCnoc 12 Years Old Scotch Whisky

Illustration by the author

By John Barecki

In an experiment over the next few months, we will be reviewing a handful of Scotch whiskys to try and find the best quality for the lowest price. As I delve deeper into the world of whisky, I tend to find a lot of overlapping ideas with regard to what influences a person's choice when they are standing at the liquor shelf. Being guilty of following the same trends myself, I thought it would be interesting to try to shadow all of the fancy selling points—color, extra maturing in different casks, packaging—to find out what appeals to me and our customers most, while at the same time trying to save some money in the process.

The first in this series is a 12-year-old single malt from the anCnoc distillery (pronounced a-nock). Previously called Knockdhu, the name change was done because of the confusion between it and the the Knockando distillery. Originally opened in 1894, anCnoc was considered the "perfect embodiment of a modern distillery" and, outside of a couple small additions, not much has changed in the way they create their warm flavors and complexity.

Stationed in the eastern Highlands, anCnoc 12 Years Old contains a great complexity not usually experienced in a younger whiskys. This is most likely due, at least in part, to the use of a worm tub, which consists of a coiled copper tube that is submerged in cold water. The worm tub condenses the alcohol vapor back into liquid form. While only a handful of distillers still use this method, the result is a wonderfully well-rounded, heavier character. There is a freshness to the nose, with a hint of smoke and pungent finish. It is medium rich on the palate, sweetness barely coming through, with some spices and fruit. The finish is long and rewarding, combining all the flavors down to a soft fruity end.

While anCnoc 12 Years Old does not surpass some of the longer-aged malts, it still packs a complexity worthy of the best and is available for under $40. anCnoc 12 Years Old is now available at Siciliano's Market for $38.81/750ml.

Tuesday Review: Glenmorangie Sampler Pack

The four whiskys reviewed here are available on their own for around $40 to $60 per bottle. Siciliano's Market is currently offering a 4-pack sampler containing one 100ml bottle of each whisky for the price of $31.48.

Glenmorangie Sampler Pack, $31.48

By John Barecki

In Gaelic, Glenmorangie means "glen of great tranquility." The whisky produced at this distillery comes from the home of Scotland's tallest stills, which contribute to lighter, purer spirits. In the 1990s, after changing hands a couple of times following their recreation as a brand, Glenmorangie became the best selling single malt in Scotland. The single malts from here are painstakingly crafted, with some benefitting from the use of extra maturation in specifically produced and exotic wood barrels.

Glenmorangie distillers start the whisky process by traveling to the Ozark mountains in Missouri, searching out oak trees that grow on the north-facing hills. These are chosen because the trees grow slower, leading to wood with a finer grain which in turn allows for the whisky to render even more flavor from the wood. The wood is then cut into staves and allowed to air dry (as opposed to kiln drying). The staves are loaned to the Jack Daniels distillery to obtain bourbon-aged qualities.

Glenmorangie are true pioneers of maturing whisky in different types of wood. By combining their flagship single malt with everything from port wine pipes to Sauternes barrels, they create a whole spectrum of flavors, many of which I've tried to document in my reviews below.

The original Glenmorangie 10 Year has a crisp sweetness leaning on citrus and soft nutty toffee. It is quite creamy, with great lemony citrus and slight caramel that gradually moves to honey in the background. A slight spice accompanies the medium-length finish, followed by some nice vanilla tones ringing out at the end. It makes a great first impression that will cater to Highland whisky fans. The next three styles have the original 10 Year as their base. The finished whisky is put into various exotic barrels and left to slumber for an extra two years, achieving a cacophony of different flavors and aromas that tantalize the senses.

Lasanta in Gaelic stands for warmth and passion. As you consider the work and patience it takes to create sherry, you start to understand the intricacies of this malt. The distillers use Oloroso sherry barrels in the second maturation, allowing the spirit for two years to dig into history. The color is one that a lot of single malt consumers drool over, even though that shouldn't be a deciding factor in your purchase. In the first couple of sniffs there is the ever-present nuttiness found in sherry, and this moves into a light cinnamon with red raisin. On the tongue, the Lasanta is creamy, medium-spiced going to nutty toffee and dark fruit. As this one finishes the sweetness recedes to a slightly spicy dry finish, citrus and hazelnut.

The Quinta Ruban is matured in port pipes, the barrels used in the manufacture of port wine. Spending the extra time in the wood creates a dram like no other. The honey and citrus that are present in the 10 Year are accentuated by the fruitiness imparted by the port wine. It has a fresh and fruity nose and in the mouth you'll find a minty chocolate, followed by a slightly nutty character that envelopes the tongue with a creamy smoothness. The Quinta Ruban lingers like liquid silk, leaving dark chocolate and traces of light orange behind.

Last but not least I come to the Nectar D'Or, which is extra matured in French Sauternes barrels. Sauternes, a dessert wine, is made by selecting Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes that have been infected by botrytis cinerea, also known as noble rot. This "rot" causes the grapes to concentrate flavors and aromas, creating a symphony on the palate. The effect the barrels have on the spirit is intoxicating to the senses. Scents of citrus rind and dates swirl around slight coconut. You are drawn in on the first sip, with a luxurious mouthfeel that contains candy ginger and almond. Nectar D'Or has a deep, syrupy complexity containing lemon, honey, and vanilla creme. It lingers on the palate with a luscious sweetness, as all the flavors gently subside into a smooth finish.

Please visit Siciliano's Market to browse the whiskey and whisky department, which it seems is growing more exciting all the time. 

Tuesday Review: Knappogue Castle 12 Year

By Doug Dorda

This pot-stilled single malt whiskey has not only captured my imagination, it has quickly become one of my favorite Irish offerings. The liquor stands boldly alongside its more popular cousins—Scotch and Bourbon—delivering a flavor profile that is wholly unique to the three.

Knappogue Castle 12 Year ($32.42/750ml) is aged in American Bourbon barrels, similar to Scotch, and as such it is colored a captivating pale gold. It is important to note that this color is solely derived from the Bourbon cask aging. The aromatic bouquet of the aqua vitae (water of life) is a complex symphony of cinnamon, sweet malts, biscuit, citrus fruits, and the presence of ethanol. The aroma sets the stage for a deeply complex drink that is smooth, even haunting on the palate. In short, this whiskey does not disappoint.

In a continuing effort to educate myself fully on the potential tastes of all things fermented, I took my first sip unencumbered by water or ice. Cinnamon and nutmeg steal the show at the front end of the palate, but they quickly strike a balance with warm vanilla and toffee notes that are no doubt a contribution from the char inside the Bourbon barrels. Caramel, biscuit, and roasted notes coalesce mid palate to offer a sensation of sweet milk chocolate that may also be likened to a roasted marshmallow. It is important to note that throughout the palate the whiskey lays like a pure silk; it can be confused with a lightly diluted honey due to the way its slowly lingers on corners of the tongue.

When finally diluted with water, the fruit notes dominate the nose, and all or most of the ethanol dies off. Certain flavors in the whiskey will then be heightened or subdued depending on your rate of dilution. However, all the while, the Knappogue Castle 12 Year will remain smooth and warm upon the palate—the whiskey equivalent to a hot cocoa after a day of being in the snow.

Knappogue Castle has a history that some readers may find intriguing. If you have time for quick tale, as well as a love and respect for restoration projects, I suggest you spend some time here: http://www.knappoguewhiskey.com/greathall/.

Knappoge Castle 12 Year ($32.42/750ml) is available now at Siciliano's.

Tuesday Review: Ardbeg Corryvreckan Scotch Whisky

By John Barecki

Recently I decided to try Corryvreckan, a higher-end version of Ardbeg Scotch, one of my favorite single malts and the smokey pearl of Islay. Corryvreckan is named after the third largest whirlpool on the planet and is just north of Islay. According to legend, a brave soul was swallowed up by this natural wonder while trying to impress a local princess. How fitting that Corryvreckan the whisky would take its name from such a powerhouse. At 57.1% alcohol (a little over 114 proof), dark and powerful water is not hard to imagine.

The whisky pours a deep amber gold, brought on by the use of French oak burgundy barrels. The first sniff fills your head with a torrent of stormy sea air and crackling fire. Branching wood notes appear after a peppery blast in the beginning, moving on to a more fruity, almost candy-like citrus (lemon, tart, marmalade). On the palate, the whisky starts with a zing, a little hot from the high proof, but also surprisingly clean in the way it presents itself.

After the first impression subsides, a rich, luxuriant mouthfeel combines sweet, sour, savory and smokey, all in one blow. Think sweetened peaches with a dash of cayenne and black pepper. With the addition of water, the spicy front becomes softer and allows you to enjoy the darker depths. Its finish is long and layered, peppery, ending with peat smoke to reveal fruit and golden malt sweetness similar to that of the Ardbeg Ten Year.

At $85.76/750ml, the price tag for Ardbeg Corryvreckan Ardberg may be a little steep. But if you're an avid whisky fan, this one is defiantly worth treating yourself.

Check in next Tuesday for staffer Doug Dorda's review of Knappogue Castle 12 Year Old, pictured above with the Corryvreckan.

The Tuesday Review: Perrin Brewing Company

By Steve Siciliano

A pint at Perrin Brewing Co.

Apparently the oft repeated phrase “location, location, location” doesn’t pertain to brew pubs. At least not when the pub has solid beers, an inviting atmosphere, good eats, and friendly service—the winning combination that is keeping the taproom busy at the recently opened Perrin Brewing Company.

Perrin is located north of Grand Rapids on 7 Mile Road in an industrial park setting that seems more conducive to an apple processing plant or a Farm and Fleet store. Despite its somewhat incongruous locale, the pub has developed a cadre of loyal regulars. Since it opened, Barb and I have been making the twenty-minute drive to the taproom on a fairly regular basis.

We do so, of course, to enjoy the solid lineup of head brewer Nate Walser’s beer. But that’s not the only reason. If the lifeblood of a taproom is its beer then its heart is the staff, and tap room manager Kurt Schmiege and assistant manager Kelly Gustafson have assembled and trained a good one. It’s obvious that the emphasis here is on knowledge of the draught offerings and fast and friendly service; and if the continuously packed taproom is any indication, patrons are not being disappointed. The fact that you can get good burgers, sandwiches, sweet potato fries, zingy dipping sauces and excellent humus in the pub is a bonus.

Last Friday Barb and I made another trip to Perrin and we were lucky to find a parking spot. Inside, every seat was occupied so we squeezed in at the end of the bar. While I stood enjoying Nate’s brown ale I looked around the taproom—at the attentive wait staff buzzing around taking good care of the customers, at the continuous line of folks queuing up at the bar, at the crowd of people sharing the common denominator of the love of good beer.

We here at Siciliano’s lift a pint to Perrrin’s owners, to Nate and the brewers, and to Kurt, Kelly, and the wait staff for yet another solid contribution to West Michigan’s growing beer culture.

Tuesday Review: Albert Bichot Beaujolais Nouveau & Villages

Albert Bichot Beaujolais
Nouveau & Villages, $9.99/750ml

By John Barecki with Doug Dorda

Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé! If you were to be in France on the third Thursday in November, you would see banners proclaiming the arrival of the Beaujolais Nouveau. It's a harvest fest, of sorts, for the first wine made with the year's first grape harvest.

Beaujolais Nouveau is as close to a white wine as a red can get. The astringent tannins, common in most reds, are extremely low in these wines, leaving it fruity and almost too easy to drink. The wine is produced from Gamay, a grape that on its own produces a wine with high acidity because of stress on the vines caused by an alkaline rich soil. The carbonic maceration method (fermentation within the skins of whole grapes) combined with a three-week aging process brings out a heightened fruit character, but because of the young age, this wine is one you'll want to drink within a year...with a few exceptions. There are some that can be aged for up to three years. These are called Beaujolais Villages and are made with a slightly higher quality grape produced in only one area of the Beaujolais region.

No matter the level—Nouveau or Villages—these wines are always a treat for the food-heavy holidays. At Siciliano's, we currently have two different versions for you to take home, both are good, both are $9.99/750ml, and both are made by Albert Bichot. 

The Albert Bichot Beaujolais Villages has a deeper vinous character, showing a little more acidity. It's more cherry-like in flavor and has a dryer palate but is still quite easy to drink and will go great with meals.

Now, here's our own Doug Dorda with a review of the Nouveau.

The Beaujolais Nouveau from Albert Bichot should be considered a wonderful addition to any holiday feast. I found this playful wine to pour a brilliant candy red that, when tilted, reminded me of strawberry fields in the height of summer. There is a luminance that shines from within the wine that is simply “golden” and truly sets the stage for autumnal enjoyment.

Aromas of freshly picked fruits positively jump from the glass, and lightly cracked peppercorn mingled with freshly zested orange appear as though hidden, but seeking to be found. (At this point in my tasting I had begun to drool over a cheese plate, you may imagine why.)

The first sip is like gorging on a fruit salad, utterly loaded with all the nuance of mango, vine-ripened grape, cantaloupe, and the soft lingering presence of cherry. A contrast is provided to the wine by a young and perhaps shy note of tannins. However, the tannins play well with the aforementioned flavors, and simply offer themselves up as a balancing act to the bouquet of fruits that predominate the flavor profile.

Some of you may be wondering if I found the wine to be dry or sweet. There is no simple answer to that riddle. Because of the bright fruits, I would regard this wine as lightly sweet. But accounting for the tannins that provide the contrasting finish, the wine may be awarded a semi-sweet designation. I would posit that you should judge for yourself. Bear in mind that I did not find the wine to be dry in the least.

Pairing this wine with foods just may be one of the more simple things you do this holiday season – Eating fish? Beaujolais. Having chocolate cake? Beaujolais. Frozen pizza? Beaujolais. You get the picture. For a wine that costs only $9.99, I personally feel that this wine belongs on every holiday table.

Tuesday Review: Amore Tratorria Italiana

Gnocchi

By Steve Siciliano

Some of my most cherished childhood memories are of the times I sat at my grandmother’s kitchen table watching her combine a steaming pile of riced potatoes with raw eggs and flour. She would then knead the doughy mixture on a massive wooden cutting board, hand-roll pieces of the heavy lump into long strips, and then finally cut those into dozens of delicate little potato dumplings called gnocchi. [See video below for correct pronunciation.]

Gnocchi is a rustic and simple Italian dish that is frustratingly difficult to make properly. Add too much flour and you get something more akin to lead ingots than delicate, succulent, potato based pillows. Too little flour and the dumplings transform into a runny mess in the boil. But if the ingredients are combined in just the right proportions the result is exquisite culinary alchemy. Although Grandmother Fulvi never measured ingredients, her gnocchi always turned out perfectly.

Today whenever I see gnocchi listed on an Italian restaurant’s menu I can’t resist choosing it as an entrée. Most times this ends in disappointment. One time I chose the dish at a ubiquitous national chain. “I’ll have the gnocchi,” I told the gum-smacking waitress.

“The what?”

“The gnocchi,” I said again.

“The what?”

I pointed to a spot on the menu.

“Oh,” she said. “The nacky.” I should have known better.

This past Sunday, Barb and I went to Amore Tratorria Italiana, a relatively new restaurant housed in an old building on Alpine Avenue just south of Six Mile Road. “Doesn’t look too promising,” my wife said after we parked and were walking up to the front door.

“I’ve heard a lot of good things,” I replied.

When inside, we were immediately greeted by a smiling hostess and promptly seated. Seconds later our server appeared with a basket of focaccia bread and a cruet of olive oil. I half listened while she described the specials, choosing instead to focus my attention on the appetizers and the exclusively Italian wine list. Barb suggested we try the cozze, “mussels cooked in white wine with garlic, tomatoes, lemon, parsley and a touch of anisette” ($9.00). I chose a bottle of L’Astore Primitivo ($36.00) to accompany our meal and told our server that we would look at the entrees after the appetizer.

While waiting for the wine and mussels we looked around the room. An eclectic assortment of artwork adorns the rustic-red and gold painted walls. Booths line two of those walls and tables are spaced nicely around the mostly carpeted room that has a wood section in the middle appearing to have once served as a dance floor. On each table and booth was a vase holding a single—and real—red rose.

When our server appeared with our wine she properly presented the bottle, opened it, and then poured the wine through an aerator into a decanter. A nice touch. A heaping bowl of mussels were then delivered to the table. Since the description on the menu indicated that the mussels were prepared in white wine we were surprised when they came out swimming in a red sauce. It turned out to be a pleasant surprise. The sauce, with its subtle anise flavor, was excellent and we soaked up every drop with the focaccia bread.

While we were finishing the appetizer I turned my attention to the entrees and it was then that I saw that one of the offerings was gnocchi.

“How’s the gnocchi?” I asked the server.

“It’s very good.”

“Is it frozen?”

“Of course not,” she replied. “The kitchen makes it fresh from scratch every day.”

The gnocchi ($10.00) turned out to be very good indeed. Diners have the option of ordering the dish with a four cheese, Bolognese, vodka or pesto cream sauce. I chose the Bolognese. For her entrée Barb chose the involtini, thinly sliced breaded eggplant stuffed with a four cheese blend, baked with tomato sauce and cheese ($15.00). It too was very good.

I give Amore Tratorria Italiana an emphatic thumbs up. The restaurant sources many ingredients locally and it is evident, as stated on the website, that the owners are committed to providing an experience and not simply a meal. Well prepared food, excellent service, good prices and an extensive wine list all combine to create that experience. I have no doubts that we’ll soon be back for another.

Amore Tratorria Italiana is located at 5080 Alpine Avenue, Comstock Park, Michigan, 616-785-5344.

Tuesday Review: Stellar Organics Pinotage

Stellar Organics Pinotage, $10.49/750ml

By Doug Dorda

It is long time that I have sought to become more familiar with the wine selection that we offer at Siciliano's. Indeed, I admit, I am the person at the store that will often stare blankly into the face of someone who asks for a wine suggestion while fielding their request to Sarah (our resident wine guru). In accordance with my own wishes, then, and to further better myself within the realm of viticulture, I have taken it upon myself to become increasingly educated about the commercially available wines we have to offer, as well as their historical and regional significance. It is my hope that you will take this journey toward education with me.

Very recently a group of friends and I held a harvest dinner in which we showcased the bounty or flora and fauna that the fall season has to offer. “Perfect!” I thought to myself, what a way to begin the arduous journey of understanding the wines that had so eluded me in the past. After a time of dutiful research, I selected the Pinotage from Stellar Organics winery as it seemed a perfect pairing to the various dishes that would be served. According to Stellar, the wine pours an intense plum red color that extends to the edge of the glass. Cherries and vanilla may be found on the nose, and they will carry through as taste on the palate. The slightly wooded wine would then offer hints of spice and robust tannins that would add to its complexity. You might imagine my salivary glands going wild as I imagined enjoying such a beverage while at the same time enjoying a savory Turdeken and a vast wealth of hearty fall offerings.

The time had come for my own assessment. The wine indeed pours a haughty plum red that elicits memories of deep sunsets in the fading moments of twilight. The nose is a symphony of rose, black currant and middle eastern spices that are offset gently by a touch of woodsy vanilla. The taste is one that has captivated my mind since first sip. Tannins clutch at the tongue for a moment or two, then slowly let slip the dogs of dried fruit. Cranberry, cherry, and raisin coat the mid palate while a softness is delivered from the wood. The whole of the effect is like biting into a gourmet torte that is serves alongside a cappuccino – there is almost a lingering roasted nuttiness that accompanies the off/dry finish. This wine paired beautifully with savory foul, quinoa gorgonzola dishes, and every helping of pumpkin desert that could fit onto a plate. It retails at Siciliano's for $10.49.

A quick delve into the history of the particular grape varietal reveals that the grape was originally grown as an alternative to the pinot noir grape which did not show favorable growth in South African climates. In fact, pinotage owes its lineage to pinot noir itself. Since its inception in 1925, the grape has gown to become a well respected and award-winning base for wine that is growing in large favor throughout the wine drinking masses. Personally, I can not wait to try all further offerings that I may come across in the future.

A note on Stellar Organics: This is a company that will truly appeal to all who seek out products that are ethically produced, and organic to boot. I will not attempt to tell you their story when they do such a fine job of telling it themselves. They also offer a nice compliment of sulphite free wines!

Turducken

Great Lakes Brewing The Wright Pils | Tuesday Review

By Doug Dorda

Great Lakes The Wright Pils, $1.79/12oz

In a world that is inundated with ales, it can sometimes be easy to forget about lagers. Rarely do we even encounter an American craft brewery that will include one in their line-up. Those few breweries that have dedicated the time to recreating the seemingly antiquated libation are boldly offering the craft beer drinker a pint of history and daring us to discover depths of flavor we thought confined to the world of ale alone.

A shining example of the flavor laden lager family can be found in The Wright Pils by Great Lakes Brewing Co., a classic Czech Style pils that weighs in with a modest 5.3% alcohol. What I find so endearing about beers like this are that they may be similarly enjoyed by a “light” beer drinker as well as any seasoned aficionado. This is the type of beer that can be casually ignored and enjoyed by the pitcher-full, or dutifully scrutinized and dissected so that not a moment of its blissful flavor escapes one's memory.

The beer pours a brilliant straw golden color and is topped with a lasting head of stark white. Immediately scents of crisp malt and earthen hops jump into the nose. It is a scent as refreshing as a wisp of pine on the wind. Upon first sip the whole of flavors that can be attributed to noble hops are on display. Earth, pine, spice and a mild resinous note shine brilliantly, but not enough to overshadow the layers of malt that provide the “meat” counterpoint to the hop “potatoes.” A mild caramel sweetness is accompanied by a biscuit nuance that coalesces into the perceived notion of light honey. The wheat malt used in brewing the beer provides a sturdy backbone to the lager that leaves the finish medium-dry and utterly refreshing.

On the brewery's website, the beer is given the family status of wildly imaginative thinker. I believe this to be an apt moniker, given the namesake of the beer. The Wright Pils has inspired me to write this review and share my love of beer with all who will listen; how will it inspire you? Pair with wildly fantastic ideas about flying machines, or steak (but wheres the fun in that?).

Tuesday Review: Black Bottle Original Blend Scotch

By John Barecki

I have a treat for those of you who have been wanting to explore the world of Scottish-made whisky. Black Bottle Original is a blend of all the distilleries on the Isle of Islay. This little powerhouse delivers a payload of the finest Islay whisky makers, showcasing the great balance that only peat fires can provide.

Starting off with a campfire smokiness that is soothed by a balanced malt back bone, the smokey characters are cradled by a golden caramel softness. While not as wonderfully complex as some single malts can be, this affordable, sought-after, blended whisky is a great first step into the world of Scottish malts. It is a wonderful dram that really allows the palate to appreciate all the underlying flavor notes of the various regions while still having the smokey and maritime flavors associated with Islay malts.

With the price tag at only $18.84/750ml, I think the unknown author's quote on their website sums it up pretty well. "If on my theme I rightly think, there are fine reasons why I drink: good wine – a friend – because I am dry. On best I should be by-and-by. Or any other reason why."

Black Bottle Original Scotch Whisky ($18.84/750ml) is available now at Siciliano's.

The Tuesday Review: SpeakEZ Lounge

Tenderloin Elinor

By Steve Siciliano

Barb and I had been to the SpeakEZ Lounge a few times since it opened last February at its Monroe Avenue location, a space formerly occupied by the Cambridge House. While we had always gone solely for the solid list of draught craft beer offerings, a perusal of the menu during a recent visit convinced us that someday we would have to try the food. Last Saturday evening we did.

While owner Eric Albertson has retained much of the minimalist feel and understated décor of the Cambridge House—the high top tables, booths, and wooden bar; the soft lighting and exposed brick walls and ceiling—he has succeeded in elevating the quality and variety of the food. The SpeakEZ offers nine interesting appetizers ($7.00 - $11.00) and a small but eclectic list of seven entrees ranging from $9.00 to $18.00. The menu also includes eight sandwiches ($8.00 - $14.00) in addition to soups, salads, sides and desserts.

Escargot Normandy

For our starter we chose the Escargot Normandy. The snails were accompanied by crimini, button and portabella mushrooms, seared shallots and a rosemary crepe in a brandy cream sauce. For her entrée, Barb opted for the Tenderloin Elinor—seared medallions of beef tenderloin in a mushroom, shallot and brandy butter reduction with grilled asparagus and roasted Yukon potatoes. I chose the Year of the Dragon—garlic and sesame infused pork tenderloin with sugar snap peas and a sesame red pepper pasta salad topped with pork cracklings. The appetizer and both entrées were excellent and a bottle of Shannon Ridge Wrangler Red ($26.00) went nicely with the meal.

In addition to a lineup of ten draught craft beers the SpeakEZ also offers a good selection of 12oz bottles as well as a handful of 750mls. Wine lovers should also be pleased with the small but well priced and, in terms of how they pair with the food, well thought out wine list.

The SpeakEZ Lounge is at 600 Monroe Ave. NW
 in Grand Rapids, MI.