Compass Box Spice Tree Scotch Whisky: Review

By John Barecki

The world of Compass Box whisky is one full of experimentation and infinite possibilities. Head whisky maker John Glaser produces a variety of intriguing cross styles that were once unacceptable in the Scotch whisky trade.

Combining the best attributes from some of the highest quality wood-aging techniques, Glaser has amassed a wonderful array of tasty treats. Utilizing his past experience in the American wine trade, Glaser takes American white oak barrels and barrel tops made from French oak and marries them together to achieve a beautiful intermingling of flavors. This process is utilized by the Spice Tree and originated with the Oak Cross release.

The Spice Tree is what used to be known as a "vatted" or blended malt whisky, which means it is a blend of single malt whiskies instead of blended Scotch whisky where grain whisky is used along with single malts. The malts that compose this whisky come primarily from northern highland distilleries in the village of Brora, and the final product is full of wonderful flavors and textures.

On the nose, Spice Tree has a bouquet of cardamom and ginger followed by fruit and white chocolate, bright red fruits, hints of spice and vanilla again. There is a well-rounded smoothness and heightened spice brought on by the French oak and the finish has a lingering fruitiness that ends in a slight dryness. This is a fun and refreshing dram that has good complexity, great for any occasion.

Compass Box Spice Tree Scotch Whisky is currently available at Siciliano's Market for $61.99/750ml bottle.

Dalmore 12 Year Old Scotch Whisky: Review

By John Barecki

The Dalmore distillery is located in the Highland region of Scotland. They have produced everything from a 12 year old standard up to the most expensive whisky in the world, Trinitas, which contains some of the oldest and rarest whiskies in existence, a few as old as 140 years.

The first thing that intrigued me about Dalmore is master blender Richard Paterson, who for the last 40 years has molded this wonderful whisky to its full potential. Besides being a fun character, Paterson can call on two generations' worth of experience in creating a wonderful array of single malt and blended whiskies. Also intriguing is the stag's head on the bottle and the story that goes with it. In 1263, a predecessor from the Clan MacKenzie saved King Alexander III from a rampaging stag while on a hunting trip. In reward for this the king allowed him to bear the royal emblem of a 12-pointed stag as his coat of arms, which has been the symbol for the distillery ever since.

The emphasis on flavor in these single malts is the exquisite blending of different aging and barrel types. The 12 year begins life with a nine-year stint in ex-bourbon barrels. Then, half the whisky is moved into 30-year-old Matusalem oloroso sherry barrels and, after three years, the whiskies are blended back together. On the nose, there is a sherry-heavy note with dark fruits, chocolate, cinnamon and marzipan. On the palette, the whisky is smooth and "thick cut," with flavors of sticky fruits and nuts and a soft wood note followed by caramel and a spiced citrus coming in at the finish.

Overall, this is an amazing dram full of luxuriant qualities from start to finish. Fusing the best parts of sherry and whisky, the 12-year-old Dalmore showcases a wonderful and decadent complexity that I can recommend to any whisky aficionado.

The Dalmore 12 Year is available at Siciliano's Market for $53.92/750ml.

Tuesday Review: Cardhu 12 Year Single Malt Scotch

$39.99/750ml

By John Barecki

Cardhu 12 Year Old Single Malt Scotch is allegedly the creation of the first female malt producer in Scotland. Helen and John Cummings sited their first still at Cardow farm on Mannoch hill, which sits high above the river spey. According to local and family tradition, the distilling process was carried out by Helen and, after her death, her son's wife Elizabeth Robertson took up the reigns and carried on the pioneering work.

Cardhu 12 Year is no stranger to many whisky drinkers, being one of the main single malts in Johnny Walker blended whisky. The distillery went through only a couple of changes in its past. It survived WWII, functioning on a smaller scale because of barley rationing and yet still went on to become a very popular dram. In fact, in the early 2000s, stocks were being depleted quicker than they could be replenished. In response, Cardhu's parent company Diageo decided to replace the single malt with a blended malt, but the "pure malt" label angered consumers so much so that Diageo decided to pull this packaging from the market for fear of blemishing the single malt designation.

This malt is bottled at 40% ABV (80 proof). Now, the last two whiskys I sampled came in at around 92 to 96 proof, so the initial big boisterous alcohol punch seemed somewhat muted on this one. At first pour I noticed a mouthwatering character, fresh sweet barley, light herbal qualities and just a touch of smoke. It was almost too smooth on the palate, with soft fruity citrus and vanilla followed by a lingering light rhubarb sweetness that finished with a well-rounded dryness, punctuated by another touch of smoke at the end.

This is an enjoyable, easy-drinking single malt, with a well rounded "light" collection of flavors flourishing throughout. If you are looking for that high quality, everyday sipper this one hits it on the head, and at $39.99/750ml, it is not going to strain your budget.

Tuesday Review: anCnoc 12 Years Old Scotch Whisky

Illustration by the author

By John Barecki

In an experiment over the next few months, we will be reviewing a handful of Scotch whiskys to try and find the best quality for the lowest price. As I delve deeper into the world of whisky, I tend to find a lot of overlapping ideas with regard to what influences a person's choice when they are standing at the liquor shelf. Being guilty of following the same trends myself, I thought it would be interesting to try to shadow all of the fancy selling points—color, extra maturing in different casks, packaging—to find out what appeals to me and our customers most, while at the same time trying to save some money in the process.

The first in this series is a 12-year-old single malt from the anCnoc distillery (pronounced a-nock). Previously called Knockdhu, the name change was done because of the confusion between it and the the Knockando distillery. Originally opened in 1894, anCnoc was considered the "perfect embodiment of a modern distillery" and, outside of a couple small additions, not much has changed in the way they create their warm flavors and complexity.

Stationed in the eastern Highlands, anCnoc 12 Years Old contains a great complexity not usually experienced in a younger whiskys. This is most likely due, at least in part, to the use of a worm tub, which consists of a coiled copper tube that is submerged in cold water. The worm tub condenses the alcohol vapor back into liquid form. While only a handful of distillers still use this method, the result is a wonderfully well-rounded, heavier character. There is a freshness to the nose, with a hint of smoke and pungent finish. It is medium rich on the palate, sweetness barely coming through, with some spices and fruit. The finish is long and rewarding, combining all the flavors down to a soft fruity end.

While anCnoc 12 Years Old does not surpass some of the longer-aged malts, it still packs a complexity worthy of the best and is available for under $40. anCnoc 12 Years Old is now available at Siciliano's Market for $38.81/750ml.

Tuesday Review: Black Bottle Original Blend Scotch

By John Barecki

I have a treat for those of you who have been wanting to explore the world of Scottish-made whisky. Black Bottle Original is a blend of all the distilleries on the Isle of Islay. This little powerhouse delivers a payload of the finest Islay whisky makers, showcasing the great balance that only peat fires can provide.

Starting off with a campfire smokiness that is soothed by a balanced malt back bone, the smokey characters are cradled by a golden caramel softness. While not as wonderfully complex as some single malts can be, this affordable, sought-after, blended whisky is a great first step into the world of Scottish malts. It is a wonderful dram that really allows the palate to appreciate all the underlying flavor notes of the various regions while still having the smokey and maritime flavors associated with Islay malts.

With the price tag at only $18.84/750ml, I think the unknown author's quote on their website sums it up pretty well. "If on my theme I rightly think, there are fine reasons why I drink: good wine – a friend – because I am dry. On best I should be by-and-by. Or any other reason why."

Black Bottle Original Scotch Whisky ($18.84/750ml) is available now at Siciliano's.

The Tuesday Review: Ardbeg Scotch (10 Year)

By John Barecki

Back again with my review of one of the most popular of the Islay single malts, the Ardbeg 10-year-old Scotch. But first a bit of information on the distillery and region where this tasty little beauty comes from.

The isle of Islay is situated off of the west coast of Scotland next to the isle of Jura, another notable production site. The area in general is surrounded by loads of history: wars, murder, shipwrecks (some caused by the Corryvreckan, the second largest whirlpool on this planet), and of course there is no shortage of mystery. But I digress.

The characteristics that most think of when it comes to Islay single malts are the medicinal, smokey, iodine-rich flavors created by the use of peat, the compressed partially decaying plant material that covers much of the island. Peat has been used for centuries as fuel, helping to warm those on the isle. Regarding the production of spirits, it is used in the kilning or drying of the malt as well as to enrich the water that each distillery uses. Other flavors associated with these malts include salt and brine, imparted during the barrel-aging process in open-air facilities which lie directly on the coastlines, and which in turn allow sea air to penetrate the wood causing a mingling of air and spirit.

The Ardbeg distillery has been a notable producer for a very long time, although having gone from one owner to the next has changed the malt in several ways. According to Scotch enthusiasts, the 10 Year embodies Islay's history in a bottle. The nose is rich and deep, having an almost campfire quality that wafts quite far from the glass. A deeper sniff reveals iodine and lemon-pineapple candy with a side of dark chocolate. The taste is extraordinary, a full rush of peat diverges into a tangy, peppery and briney toffee. With the addition of water this bonfire's smoke subsides enough to show a sweet fruity interior, reminiscent of sugary but still tart pears and citrus with underlying nuances of vanilla and hazelnuts. With such heavily peated malt comes an almost chewy body engulfed with oils, creating a finish that will last into your smoke lined dreams.

Ardbeg 10 Year is $49.99 for a fifth at Siciliano's.

Tuesday Review: The Glenlivet 15 French Oak Reserve

By John Barecki

For the Tuesday Review this week I decided to try a whisky from one of the most well-know distillery's in the Speyside region in Scotland, The Glenlivet. I chose their 15-year-old French Oak Reserve, the wood characteristics of which conjure up some interesting new flavors on the palate. In fact, the flavors intrigued me so much I began researching the various effects of wood-aging in the world of whisky. I looked specifically at Limousin oak, the wood used to age The Glenlivet 15.

Limousin (pronounced lee-moo-ZAN) is a European oak and is popularly used in the production of fine Cognac's. It is medium-grained and a bit harder than other European oaks. It's also quite porous, which in turn provides the whisky more ability to leech larger amounts of tannins and characters from the wood itself. That being said, the flavors imparted are mainly a rich vanilla quality similar to that of the American white oak used in bourbons and whiskies, and the distinct hints of wood are strong but balanced. I should note too that the casks made from this oak are some of the most expensive in the world.

The Glenlivet 15-year-old Reserve shares similar notes with the 12, in that it has the smooth mouthfeel and general fruity character found in most of The Glenlivet lineup. The nose is filled with resinous oak, almond, marzipan and candied citrus fruits. A very smooth body compliments tastes of baked apple with a medium nuttiness and toffee, followed with the complexity of the wood adding a nice vanilla finish that lingers just long enough. This is a very good dram and at $52.99 a bottle it once again is an affordable luxury that most can enjoy.