The Tuesday Review: Barski

By Steve Siciliano

I had heard a lot of good things about the food at Barski, so on a recent weekend trip with my father to his cabin in Lake County I made it a point to stop at this M-37 tavern just north of Baldwin, Michigan for a Friday evening supper.

Barski’s is a relatively new business that opened in a vacant building that was once the site of another watering hole called Ski’s. Perhaps the new name is the new proprietor’s way of paying homage to the former incarnation.

I was in the mood for a burger so I focused on that part of the extensive menu that also includes appetizers, sandwiches, steaks, fish, pasta and Mexican. I chose the Barski’s Burger; my dad Sam opted for the all-you-can-eat fish dinner, and to whet our appetites I ordered a plate of sweet and sour pork cutlets.

The cutlets were superb. The large slices of pork, coated in a tempura batter and deep fried, were accompanied by a tasty, made-from-scratch dipping sauce that had chunks of fresh pineapple. The large burger came with a generous slice of ham, a fried egg and a relish of chopped dill pickles. After two bites I decided that the only way to attack the juicy mélange was with a knife and fork. Sam’s fish dinner was also very good. The filets were coated with the same tempura batter and then deep fried to a golden brown. Both meals were accompanied by generous sides of fries and slaw.

Barski’s is building a solid reputation as being a roadside diner that offers fresh ingredients and friendly service. It is a winning combination. I have a feeling that if you stop by this M-37 tavern for lunch or dinner you won’t be disappointed.

Barski’s 4016 S. M37, Baldwin, MI 49304. Hours of business: Monday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 12 a.m., and Sunday noon to midnight.