View our Main Site »

Friday, April 12, 2013

New Beer Friday, Nostalgia Edition No. 1 (April 12)

Beer & baseball cards have more in common
that you might imagine, says staffer Doug Dorda
This week we're letting staffer Doug Dorda take a shot at the NBF preamble. Enjoy!

By Doug Dorda


The dust flew into the beam of sunlight that streaked through the window as I breathed a slow and hearty “wow.” The hairs on the back of my hand stood straight and I found that I could not close my mouth, though not for lack of trying. I held a time capsule of sorts, a portal to days gone by and ticket to a single seating of theatrical reminiscences: it was my old collection of baseball trading cards. A smile of yesteryear played upon my lips as I held the cards close to my nose and wafted that old familiar scent of synthetic dyes imbued into composite paper material. The effect left me dizzy with memory.

Suddenly, I was no longer standing in my boyhood closet; rather, I was was witnessing the spirited conversation I’d had years ago with Andy Bird about why Cecil Fielder was the greatest baseball player of all time. In a sort of ethereal experience I hovered above two youngsters who sat amidst a mass of trading cards splayed in disarray across the floor. What struck me most about peeking down memory lane was the feeling of camaraderie and joy that I felt surrounding those cards. There was a group of us at school that would get together, discuss the cards, baseball, and possible trades. I remember having once ridden my bike 10 miles to Billy’s house because he supposedly had a Babe Ruth rookie card. (I later discovered that this was not true, of course, but we had a hell of a time watching the game that night.) It struck me that many of the friends I had were the directly result of my love for collecting trading cards, and that many of the fond memories I have from childhood could in fact be linked, in one way or another, to the act of discussing or trading them. One particularly fond memory centered myself and all of my friends around a table as we lavishly drank soda and ate cracker jacks while we quoted lines from our then favorite movie, The Sandlot (I still love the movie).

Back in present time, I found myself on the phone with old friends I knew would be thrilled by my find. One friend was able to tell that I was drinking a beer while on the phone and inquired as to which it might be. The conversation quickly shifted from baseball cards to beer, and I found myself promising this friend a tour of the beer destinations in Grand Rapids should he come and visit. Hanging up the phone I realized that I had never stopped collecting commonalities with people. In truth, it wasn't the cards that created the memories I covet from childhood, it was the flesh-and-blood fellow human beings that made each moment so special. In fact, I now posit that what we collect as humans is actually a set of happy experiences that are often tied or linked to something. In the case of childhood it was cards, and into my adulthood it has become the appreciation and tasting of beer.

I still sit on floors with friends and discuss the issues of the day, oftentimes surrounded by a selection of libations meant for us to enjoy with one another. In place of riding my bike 10 miles I have planned road-trips with multiple breweries as my only destinations, and I have attended beer festivals that feel exactly like “the big game.” Each memory, though rooted in the common interest in beer, is colored by the faces of my friends and family that have and will continue to make each and every experience as valuable to me as a Babe Ruth rookie card...or a bottle of Westvleteran 12. It struck me that no matter what we collect at any given point in our lives, the effect will always be that we end up closer to those in our lives who collect similar things and in so doing become connected to one another in a way that lasts longer than paper or a favorite beer. May we never stop collecting one another. Cheers.

New and Returning Beer at Siciliano's

  • Hitachino Next XH , $5.89/12oz - "Strong Belgian Brown Ale matured in distilled Sake barrels.the final Maturation takes place in Shochu casks {distilled sake} for 3 months" (source).
  • J.W. Lees Harvest Ale (Port), $10.09/12oz - "Only available filtered and pasteurised in bottles. Matured in wooden casks of Willoughbys Crusted Port to impart sweetness and a heavy vinous characteristic. The tradition of port is very English and many of the port houses proudly trace their ancestry back to the U.K. Portuguese wines were fortified with brandy to improve their keeping properties during shipment. This fully fermented ale has been brewed by JW Lees as a celebration of the brewers’ art. Harvest Ale can be enjoyed now or laid down like a fine wine for enjoyment to come" (source).
  • Sierra Nevada Summerfest, $1.59/12oz - "Summerfest is a delightfully refreshing example of a traditional style lager beer. While lighter in body than our ales, Summerfest displays significant hop aroma and a tangy hop bite. The long lagering period adds a smoothness that makes this beer a great summertime treat" (source).
  • Harpoon Summer Beer, 1.49/12oz - "Harpoon Summer Beer is a light-bodied, golden ale that is brewed in the Kolsch style. It originated centuries ago in the German city of Cologne. Clean, clear, and crisp - it makes an ideal summer beer. Available April thru August" (source).
  • Harpoon UFO White, $1.409/12oz - "Light, crisp, refreshing UFO White follows in the tradition of spiced wheat beers that have been brewed in Belgium for well over 300 years. Brewed with orange peel and a unique blend of spices, UFO White is the perfect choice for a summer’s barbecue, a night out with friends or any time you¹re thirsting for something a little different. Like UFO Hefeweizen and UFO Raspberry Hefeweizen, we leave UFO White UnFiltered for a more natural taste and appearance" (source).
  • Leipziger Gose, $4.79/12oz - "Leipziger Gose is a top-fermenting wheat beer {60% wheat, 40% barley malt} with coriander, salt, and lactic acid bacteria added in the boil. It is a 4.6% alc/vol eclectic beer whose name evokes a close relationship to the renowned Lambic/Geuze breweries in the Valley Senne nearby Brussels, Belgium" (source).
  • Dark Horse Plead the Fifth, $3.29/12oz (4 bottle/customer limit) - "It's big and full bodied with lots of roasted malts and balanced with heavy hops to put this imperial in a league of its own" (source).
  • Tommyknocker Nice Saison, $1.89/12oz - "A bright golden effervescent brew that is slightly tart with a spicy aroma. This light bodied ale combines a blend of 4 Belgian Yeast strains with an addition of Perle hops. Golden Saison is brewed for summer refreshment in the traditional Belgian Saison fashion" (source).
  • Sierra Nevada Ovila Quad, $3.49/375ml - "A collaboration between Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. and the monks at the Abbey of New Clairvaux, Ovila Abbey Quad brings the centuries-old monastery brewing tradition to America. Ovila Abbey Quad is rich and complex with layers of flavor including notes of intense dark fruits, and caramel-like maltiness. Rich and complex, this ale should be shared among friends in the true spirit of the season. A portion of the proceeds from this ale goes toward the restoration of the historic Santa Maria de Ovila chapter house on the grounds of the Abbey of New Clairvaux. This medieval building stood for nearly eight centuries in Spain. William Randolph Hearst purchased the monastery in 1931 and planned to use the stones for a castle even grander than his famous San Simeon. Although Hearst’s plans crumbled, these historic stones will rise again in a California Cistercian abbey" (source).
  • Great Lakes Rye of the Tiger IPA, $1.69/12oz - "India Pale Ale brewed with rye malt and loaded with hops" (source).
  • Blue Point Spring Fling, $1.69/12oz - "When the Winter is over, Spring is nature’s way of saying “hey, let’s party!” Spring Fling is how we welcome the warmer weather and spirits. Spring Fling Copper Ale strikes a perfect balance between the malty flavor of special German barley and the zesty spice of fresh American hops that results in a delicious, extremely easy to drink brew. The exquisite blend creates a harbinger of the new season with a delicate hop aroma which delivers a perfect pairing for your Spring Fever. Handcrafted from a unique blend of malts, Spring Fling Ale is a perfectly balanced copper ale that delivers a crisp and refreshing taste with subtle hints of nuts and honey. The arrival of Spring Fling means Winter has passed and Summer is right around the corner" (source).
  • Arcadia Thunder Trail ESB, $1.79/12oz - "Thunder Trail ESB (6.0% ABV): stays true to our English Brewing Heritage. With a strong backbone of Maris Otter and Crystal malts, this Extra Special Bitter is balanced by earthy, spicy, English hops. Our Ringwood yeast strain imparts a dis-tinctly fruity character that is accented by dry-hopping with a modest amount if Palisade hops. We hope you enjoy this quality session ale—wherever the Trail may take you" (source).
  • Shorts Ginger in the Rye, $1.99/12oz (6 bottle/customer limit) - "A most distinguished effervescent potable of total consciousness" (source).
  • He'brew Rejewvenator, $5.79/22oz - "How better to celebrate the evolution of the year than with recipes inspired by generations of the original craft beer warriors, the Monks! Top with a healthy dose of Shmaltz and witness the rebirth of Rejewvenator! "The winter of bondage has passed, the deluge of suffering is gone, the Fig tree has formed its first fruits, declaring all ready for libation." -Song of Solomon. Dates were used to sweeten beer in Ancient Egypt as early as 3500 BCE. Genesis 3:7: "Their eyes were opened, and they knew that they were naked; they sewed fig leaves and made themselves aprons." Queen Vic commissioned an 18" plaster fig leaf for her cast of Michelangelo's David. "The statue that advertises its modesty with a fig leaf brings its modesty under suspicion." -Mark Twain. Under a fig tree, Romulus and Remus, mythical founders of Rome, were nursed by a she-wolf and worlds away Buddha found enlightenment. Zechariah: "Nations shall beat their swords into plowshares - all will sit with their neighbor under a fig tree, never afraid." Mohammed: "Whoever eats seven Tamr (dates) at breakfast shall rise above magic and poison that day." The Hebrew word for Date palm "Tamar" connotes a woman's grace. "The only difference between a first date and a job interview is not many job interviews have a chance you'll end up naked." ÐJerry Seinfeld. Psalm 92:12: "The righteous shall flourish like the Date palm." Thankfully all we need to do is pop open a bottle and rejoice... L'Chaim!" (source).
  • Dogfish Head Chateau Jiahu, $14.39/22oz - "Similar to a beer brewed in China some 9,000 years ago, Chateau Jiahu used a recipe that included rice, honey, and grape and hawthorn fruits. The formula was obtained from archaeologists who derived it from the residues of pottery jars found in the late Stone Age village of Jiahu in northern China. The residues are the earliest direct evidence of brewed beverages in ancient China" (source).

Great Lakes Eye of the Tiger IPA | Selected New Beer of the Week


Great Lakes Eye of the Tiger IPA, $1.69/12oz
"India Pale Ale brewed with rye malt and loaded with hops" (source). 


Cheers!

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Recollections in Wine: A Short Course in Chianti

2007 San Leonino Castellina
Chianti Classico, $14.39/750ml
By Steve Siciliano

Sometimes I can’t remember where I put my car keys, but when it comes to a few select experiences from my distant past involving wine, I have wonderful recall. After thirty years I can still remember exactly where I was when I first tasted a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s been ten years since Barb and I had a wonderful dinner at Hattie’s Restaurant in Suttons Bay (now closed), yet I distinctly recollect the flavors and aromas of the velvety smooth Beaulieu Vineyards pinot noir that we drank with grilled pork chops smothered in a cherry barbecue sauce.

I can also vividly recall my first experience with Chianti. It was in the mid 1970s in a quaint Italian restaurant in the Bronx. Pictures of the Coliseum, the Leaning Tower of Pisa and Michelangelo’s David were on the walls, Dean Martin was crooning on a cassette player and there were red and white checkered tablecloths. In the middle of our table sat an empty, straw-covered wine bottle holding a candle. I asked the old, broken-English-speaking waiter to bring out a full one. While the restaurant’s veal parmesan was magnificent, the wine that came in that whicker basket bottle was atrocious.

Twenty years later in an Italian restaurant on Rush Street in Chicago, another old waiter persuaded me to give Chianti another try. I remember being surprised that the bottle he brought to the table wasn’t one of those whicker fiascos. The gnocchi in that restaurant rivaled my grandmother’s, and that bottle of Ruffino Chianti Classico Reserva Ducale, with its flavors of dried orange, earth and dark chocolate, was so good that I ordered another.

For a wine to be legally called Chianti it must be produced in one of seven demarcated regions in Tuscany and consist of a blend that strictly adheres to Italian wine laws. The blend was once comprised solely of grapes indigenous to the Tuscan region—sangiovese and canailo for the reds, malvasi and/or trebianno for the whites. As Chianti became more popular after World War II, vineyards were planted in areas that produced inferior fruit and winemakers began using the maximum percentage allowed of the less expensive white grapes in the blend. As a result, the quality of Chianti gradually declined. By the late 1960s, it had become thin, unbalanced and acidic, and was probably purchased more for the quaint fiasco than for the wine inside.

Faced with tarnished reputations and declining sales, Tuscan winemakers began taking steps in the mid 1970s to improve the quality of Chianti—less white wine was used in the blend and inferior vineyards were torn up. A few of the more innovative makers even began experimenting with non-indigenous varietals such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc with impressive results. But since these new wines didn’t follow the traditional Chianti formula, they couldn’t legally be called Chianti. Wine writers nicknamed them the Super Tuscans, a moniker that is still used today. Prompted by the international success of the Super Tuscans, the Italian government revised the traditional formula and winemakers are now allowed to use non-indigenous grapes to produce Chianti.

Today Chianti has reclaimed its position as one of Italy’s most important wines. While it will probably always be associated with quaint Italian restaurants and traditional Italian cuisine, thankfully those once ubiquitous, straw-covered bottles, and the inferior wine they contained, no longer are producing unpleasant memories.

To start making your own memories with Chianti, try San Leonino Castellina Chianti Classico, pictured above and currently available at Siciliano's Market.

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Tuesday Review: Manon Tempranillo

Manon Tempranillo
By Doug Dorda

Here is a wine that is as bold in color as it is in the rest of its rich and haunting characteristics. This particular vino pours a haughty purple that is only slightly offset by a hue of lavender as it thins toward the rim (research into the Spanish grape varietal reveals that the grape itself brandishes the same deep hues boldly on the vine). Intrigued by its color and the premise for tasting, that being a plate rife with cheeses and cured meats, I sunk my nose into the glass.

Bursting forth from the beautiful, albeit gloomy purple vintage is a whisp of smoke, like pipe tobacco that clings to a well-worn tweed coat. Peppercorn and savory ancho chili lend complexity to the smoke, and contrast is found in the way of dried strawberry that dances with molasses among the backdrop of a mild ethyl alcohol note.

The taste brings a powerful, though balanced presence of smoke to the forefront of the tongue. One can not help but think of moist applewood being added to a barbecue. Tart cherries and molasses along with other dried fruits become the focus of the mid palate and allow the drinker to ponder the complexity of the wine for at least a moment. The finish is a cascade of peppercorn, grain leather, cardamom and tannins that work to make the full bodied wine intensely quaffable.

As I tasted I shook my head in mild disbelief, slowly breathing a “whoa.” Not only did it pair perfectly with the food on the tray in front of me, I longed to drink this vintage with everything from barbecue to fruit salad and beyond. The sun sank lower across the lake and I closed my eyes to dream of spring. I thought to myself, I’ll have to have this wine quite often. At a modest price point of less than $8 a bottle, you may find yourself saying the same.

Monday, April 8, 2013

The Scorpion: Custom Six-Manifold Wort Chilling Station

Boyd Culver with the Scorpion
By Steve Siciliano

In the process of planning and organizing an event with the size and scope as May 4th’s Big Brew at the Calder, it’s inevitable that there would be administrative barriers that had to be hurdled, kinks that needed to be straightened out and logistical challenges that had to be overcome. I’m pleased to report that so far we have successfully negotiated every major and minor obstacle and that things are progressing nicely.

Perhaps the biggest problem that needed to be addressed and solved was how we were going to efficiently manage the chilling of forty-eight kettles of hot wort. After much pondering, head scratching and brainstorming, we decided that this would best be accomplished by a custom built, six-manifold chilling station.

We assigned the task of building the wort chilling station to a local company that manufactures the immersion wort chillers that we sell at Siciliano’s. Boyd Culver, the owner of Coldbreak Brewing, has named the chilling station “The Scorpion” and he designed it to simultaneously and efficiently chill six kettles of hot wort with water that will be sourced from an on-site fire hydrant. Boyd and his employees will be manning the chilling station during the event.

I would like to recognize and thank longtime Siciliano’s customer, avid home brewer and good friend Greg Masck for his valuable insights, legwork and help with this project.

How the Scorpion got its name

Friday, April 5, 2013

New Beer Friday, Post-KBS Edition (April 5)

By Chris Siciliano

Well, KBS has come and gone for another year—from a retail perspective, that is. We here at Siciliano's wish you all good luck securing a snifter or two at your favorite watering hole. If we catch wind that anyone has tapped a keg, we'll pass along the information. In fact, if you don't already, be sure to follow us on Facebook. We often post news relevant to the larger beer scene in Grand Rapids, not just the news from Siciliano's.

But I digress. Do you know what I like most about KBS (besides drinking it, that is)? I like the fact that for 12 months, give or take, the beer ages in gypsum mines below Grand Rapids. That might seem an odd thing to celebrate, especially when conditions in the mines can theoretically be reproduced elsewhere on the planet, whereas the skill and experience of Founders brewers, not to mention the "house flavors" of Founders brewery itself, cannot be recreated anywhere.

Nevertheless, something about the story of the gypsum mines appeals to me. It's partly because my own great grandfather helped dig those mines, just as I'm sure many of your grandparents and great grandparents did. It also has something to do with the idea that all year long we go about our business, traveling back and forth across the city, (mostly) ignorant to the fact that somewhere below us, barrel upon barrel of imperial stout is aging in the most geologic of conditions.

But most important, I feel like the gypsum mines physically tie Founders KBS to the city of Grand Rapids. I believe—or maybe I just hope—that KBS is a product of its environment, and the way you can never truly replicate a Czech pils outside of Plzen, or a true Lambic outside of Brussels, is how it is for KBS. Despite having access to all the same ingredients, and even the exact recipe, a brewery in Texas or Colorado could never 100% accurately reproduce KBS. The beer is a direct result of its unique place in the world, just as we are, and I think that's something to be proud of.

New and Returning Beers at Siciliano's

  • Detroit Brewing Co Raddler, $1.69/12oz - "Radler beer is the German version of the English Shandy style, which is a blend of light ale and lemonade. In order to honor our brewing roots, we followed the German method of mixing natural Lemon & Lime flavors into a blend of our Bohemian pilsener and specially crafted Bavarian lager. These methods create a perfectly refreshing summer beverage which has a strong, slightly tart citrus aroma and flavor. This is the best summer brew we have ever made, and we hope that it becomes a part of all your summer traditions" (source).
  • Anderson Valley Heelch O' Hops, $3.09/12oz - "Robust. Brewed with a “heelch” (that means “a lot” in Boontling) of Columbus, Chinook, and Cascade hops, our double IPA has a palate pleasing bitterness that is artfully balanced with a full-bodied malt foundation. With a deep color of polished brass and a nose that sings of pink grapefruit and redwood needles, the rich biscuit-like malt flavors are intertwined with hints of vanilla, mangoes, and peppercorns leading to a deep, warming finish" (source).
  • Southern Tier Hop Sun, 1.69/12oz - "Pour Hop Sun Summer Wheat Beer into a pint glass, give it a long whiff and you’ll realize that this isn’t your average wheat beer. Filtered to a golden clarity and dry-hopped to perfection, Hop Sun is a fantastic session ale in which flavors of wheat, barley and hops co-mingle to a refreshing and zesty conclusion. Hints of lemon and sweet malts waft to the fore as a touch of bitterness contributes to Hop Sun’s bright finish. Enjoy Hop Sun all summer long as a perfect balance to your outdoor recreation. Summer never tasted so good" (source).
  • Abita Spring IPA, $1.69/12oz - "Spring IPA (March-May) is a West Coast-style IPA with an up-front intense hop flavor and aroma. Amarillo and Centennial hops give the brew a rich and resinous flavor of citrus and spice. This bright pale ale has a malt sweetness that will give way to a pleasant bitter. It pairs well with Mexican or spicy Szechwan Chinese food. Spring IPA is a nice accompaniment for cheeses with strong flavors, like sharp cheddar or goat cheese" (source).
  • Sprecher Imperial Stout, $2.09/12oz - "This tremendously rich and thick stout uses a profusion of burnt and caramel malts. A massive mouthful of dark roasted malt and coffee flavors finishes with hints of licorice, fig and currant" (source).
  • Shorts Prolonged Enjoyment, $1.69/12oz (limit one 6-pack/person) - "A session pale ale with huge amounts of earthy hop fragrances of green grass that are complimented by a wildly dry finish" (source).
  • Chitown Lakeshore Lager, $1.79/12oz - "Lake Shore Lager is an excellent example of the dedication and persistence in reaching the fundamentals of producing a great premium hand-crafted lager" (source).
  • Chitown Windy City Wheat, $1.79/12oz - "A Belgian-style wheat ale brewed with honey and spices" (source).
  • Chitown Pier Pale, $1.79/12oz - "Pier Pale Ale has been carefully formulated and zealously taste-tested to surpass even the highest of expectations" (source).
  • Trout River Boneyard Barley Wine, $2.49/12oz - No commercial description available.
  • Trout River Hoppin' Mad Trout, $1.59/12oz - "Our Pale Ale has toasted malt flavors dominated by hops. A fragrant, flowery aroma complements the clean, dry finish" (source).
  • Trout River Chocolate Oatmeal Stout, $1.59/12oz - "A dark, deliciously roasty brew with hints of chocolate in flavor and aroma. Velvety smooth with a dry, roasted finish" (source).
  • Blue Mountain Barrel House Uber Pils, $8.39/750ml - "Behold the subtle power of a beer whose simplicity of elements belies its complex spirit. Pilsener malt, noble Hallertau hops, lager yeast, and deep well water. By scaling up these simple ingredients we’ve turned the German pilsener "imperial" and made one of the world’s most refreshing styles of beer bigger, rounder and even more enjoyable" (source).
  • Blue Mountain Barrel House Steel Wheels, $10.79/750ml - "The music of The Steel Wheels and the beer from Blue Mountain are both original and handcrafted, with inspired Americana flavors from the heart of Virginia. Our collaboration E.S.B. draws from the past with British crystal malts and Scottish yeast, but uses American hops to put our own stamp on the creation. Like this beer, The Steel Wheels draw you in from the first sip … not because their music is loud or in your face, but because it's surprising and original, and because its inspirations – a story, a character, a memory – have been brewed with just the right ingredients. Take time to drink slowly and listen truly. Wherever you are, get ready to sing along, to harmonize. Maybe even get up and dance" (source).
  • Blue Mountain Barrel House Mandolin, $12.19/750ml - "A deep golden beer born of a single malt. Balance derived from whole-flower hops. Created from water drawn deep beneath the feet of the world's oldest mountains. Flavor driven by a faithful dedication to excess. All brought to life by yeast from a holy place. Great beer is a riddle that does not need to be solved! (source).
  • Blue Mountain Barrel House Dark Hollow, $12.19/750ml, $7.09/375ml - "The mystery of great beer challenges the spirit of adventure in all who seek a higher level to this ancient brew. Dark Hollow blends the miracle of two crafts—brewing and distillation—to create a work greater than the sum of its parts. Our imperial stout has been aged in charred American oak bourbon barrels, patiently breathing in and out of the wood, gaining complexity, depth and character" (source).
  • Blue Mountain Barrel House Local Species, $10.99/750, $6.49/375ml - "Different. Secret. Native. A creation of deep-drawn well water, special barley malts, American hops and Belgian yeast. Aged in charred American White Oak bourbon barrels. A beer as original and beautiful as our native Brookie" (source).

St. Bernardus Tokyo | Selected New Beer of the Week


St. Bernardus Tokyo, $12.39/750ml
"A unique, single batch created for the opening
 of the St Bernardus pub in Tokyo" (source).


Cheers!

Thursday, April 4, 2013

Bell's Oberon: A Symbol of Summer and So Much More

Bell's Oberon was released this year on March 25, 2013. In the post below, staffer Greg 'Swig' Johnson reflects on what he believes this annual event—Oberon Day—has come to mean for craft beer enthusiasts and casual fans alike.


By Greg "Swig" Johnson

Ramble (Ober)on.

Now that another Oberon Day has come and gone, I've been reflecting on the significance of this day in West Michigan. The way I see it, Oberon has done one thing no other beer in West Michigan, the whole of Michigan, and possibly even the whole country has been able to do—Oberon has become a symbol for an entire season, and one of the best seasons at that: summer.

In a way, I'm indifferent to Oberon. That doesn't mean I think Oberon is a bad beer, not by any stretch of the imagination; in fact, it's quite the opposite. Oberon is consistently produced in high quantities and with high quality. My preference in beer styles has simply shifted over the years to where I don't reach for an Oberon when I might have in the past. Oberon has a different meaning to me now and this is where I feel justified in saying this beer has become a symbol.

The arrival of Oberon means that the end to winter is near and the seemingly endless reaches of summer are now within reach. Also, as a symbol, Oberon does not appeal only to the craft beer centric masses—year after year I see more and more BMC drinkers also reach for a six pack of Oberon when a Saturday summer BBQ is at hand. It has reached a scale of identifiability in Michigan that is unsurpassed by probably any other craft beer, which further confirms its place as a symbol more than any other seasonal craft beer offering.

This past Oberon Day, I embarked on a Michigan mini-adventure that was not Oberon centric. I wasn't seeking any of the countless Oberon release parties or blow-out pint specials that happen every year. However, as my afternoon travels turned into the evening, they brought me to Pints & Quarts in Norton Shores where, if anyone could guess, Oberon was on special for $2 a pint.

While hemming and hawing over the great beer list, thoughts of Oberon wouldn't leave my mind. I'm not sure if it had to do with the recent thawing of Lake Michigan, or seeing the cases and cases of Oberon walk into Siciliano's that morning, or maybe it was the $2 pint special. Whatever the case, I saddled up to a pint of Oberon, orange and all, and you know what? It was everything I thought it could be.

Now that the cold dark depths of winter have passed, I for one am happy to see that golden orange orb atop Bell's tap handles (even though I love winter). With Daylight Savings now behind us and wisps of sunlight reaching above the horizon well past 8pm, not to mention the dwindling snowpack, do as a recent and clever meme so aptly put it: Keep Calm and Oberon.

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Making Maple Syrup and the Growing DIY Movement


Making syrup from sap takes time and effort
By Weston Eaton

As the do-it-yourself (DIY) movement continues to grow in popularity in West Michigan, especially in the arena of homebrewing, I would like to contribute this story in the attempt to increase the visibility of another craft practice with a rich history: making maple syrup. First, let me explain the essential basics in an effort to demystify how syrup is made. Second, I want to talk about my own experiences making syrup with friends at my family’s “cabin” more closely to make some points in regards to scale of production as well as why it is we choose to engage in DIY practices.

As any nature center will tell you, the watery sap of sugar maples contains about 3 - 4 percent sugar. Sap flows through the outer cambium, just behind the bark, from roots up to branches in the spring, or more specifically, when the freezing days give way to sunny, warm afternoons but the temperature again drops below 32F at night. Last year you will recall this happened early, but this syrup making season has been ideal—a lengthy streak of warm days and cold nights. Once the nights cease to freeze, the sap is no longer suited for syrup making. Sap collecting is therefore a highly seasonal activity, completely contingent on the weather.

To collect sap, syrup makers drill small, shallow holes and snugly tap in “spiles,” small spigots on which buckets are hung or hoses attached. Trees are tapped at a slight upward angle to encourage flow and on the south-eastern portion of the trunk, only a few feet above the forest floor. Trees may be tapped more than once, depending on their size, and a single tap can produce gallons of sap a day depending on the weather conditions. Once sap is collected, it is boiled down to a concentration of 66 percent sugar. Fifty gallons of sap will boil down to about one gallon of pure maple syrup.


While the above description covers the basics, it;s all still a bit vague. I want to use my own experience to unpack some lingering questions, mainly, how many trees are tapped and gallons collected? And how is sap boiled into syrup? I use my own experience because there are no universally right answers to these questions. In other words, there is no better or worse way to make syrup. Instead, like with other DIY practices, one needs to develop a practice that suits his or her personal and collective goals, while at the same time recognizing that one’s goals are not static but instead emerge and change in conjunction with their experiences. Let me provide some illustrations.

How many trees to tap and gallons to collect? The production plans we use at our cabin are by now so worn and familiar that I rarely give it a thought. This was not the case, however, nine years ago when we first began tapping. Back then, we adjusted our plans to our resources—to the trees within proximity, the tools we had access to, the number of buckets we had, and the time we could spend. In other words, these resources set the scale of our production.

How is sap boiled into syrup? Here our story is similar: what resources were at hand? As a homebrewer, propane burners made the most sense. We fabricated a small stainless syrup pan and holding tank and these resources constrained how it was we converted sap to syrup.


Over the years, however, resources have increased as has accumulated knowledge and lived experience. Mistakes made early on (tapping oak trees, boiling over or burning batches, buckets with frozen sap) were now much less likely to happen. There were now opportunities—bigger pans, moving to wood heat, vacation days from work—that offered the possibilities of significant change, mainly growth.

And here we come to the insight that I would like to add to DIY discussions. As resources and capacities are increased, how do we balance growth with our personal and collective goals for DIY practices? The point I want to make is a simple observation: it is possible to let projects get too big, and in doing so, overshadow the spirit of DIY. In my experience this happens in two non-exclusive ways. First, it's possible to upgrade one’s syrup making operation to the point where the complexity of the practice overtakes its original enjoyability. At a certain point, boiling down syrup can become a chore, this is especially so if lots of equipment needs to be operated and maintained (i.e., reverse osmosis systems, vacuum lines, hundreds of taps). Second, one may make two, four, ten, or a hundred times as much syrup as a small producer, but how much syrup is really necessary? I’ve met folks who only make syrup once every few years at the most due to their gigantic stock pile.

On the other hand, if the production system grows, so might our goals. Perhaps folks might choose to go into business with their sugar bush in the same way that homebrewers start their own breweries. This is common theme, and one that’s highly encouraged in our entrepreneurial culture. My argument, however, is different. We do not need to be professional brewers to enjoy making beer, nor turn our uncle’s back forty into a productive and marketable sugarbush to enjoy making syrup. In fact, it might just be the opposite! The brewers I know certainly love their jobs, but their work is very different from the late nights spent over boiling kettles in their apartment kitchens. The difference, I am arguing, is a matter of scale that becomes salient when we make a conscious decision to identify the threshold where enjoyment and enchantment can morph into chores and obligations. In other words, at a certain point creativity can dip into drudgery.

In conclusion, I want to suggest that DIY practices occupy a distinct space in our lives. For most of us, we engage in DIY activities not for reasons of efficiency—like saving time and money—but for personal, family, and collective creative enrichment and enjoyment. DIY activities create a space between the more rational obligations of life where our personal and collective creative identities can flourish. DIY practices therefore emerge more from communitarian inspirations than individual success. This flummoxes the entrepreneurial culture that can only calculate in terms of the individual and rational efficiency.